Adventure Day 13 - Split

Day 13 — Split: Walking Through 1,700 Years of History

Today was another big walking day in Split — a full tour through the layers of history packed inside Diocletian’s Palace and beyond. The weather finally cooperated, so I joined a walking tour and spent the day wandering through Roman streets, medieval courtyards, Renaissance palaces, and Art Nouveau façades. Split is one of those places where every corner feels like it belongs to a different century.

Yara, of course, claimed she was “the only thing worth touring,” but she tolerated the history lesson.

Grand Peristyle — Egyptian Granite Columns from Thebes

We started at the Peristyle, the ceremonial courtyard of Diocletian’s Palace. The massive Egyptian granite columns were transported from Thebes at the emperor’s command — a reminder that when you’re a Roman emperor, shipping heavy stone across the Mediterranean is just another Tuesday.

Yara looked up at the columns and said, “Finally, architecture that understands me.”

Bishop Gregory’s Statue — Touch the Toe for Good Luck

Next was the towering statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin, created by Ivan Meštrović. Tradition says touching his big toe brings good luck, so I gave it a tap. Yara insisted she didn’t need luck but touched it anyway “just to be polite.”

Roman Decumanus & Cardo — Streets That Still Shape the City

We walked along the original Roman decumanus and cardo, the two main streets that formed the grid of Diocletian’s Palace. Even after the 17th century and countless rebuilds, these ancient streets still serve as Split’s main thoroughfares.

Yara said, “Good layout. Very efficient. I approve.”

Gothic–Renaissance Papalić Palace

We visited the Papalić Palace, a beautifully preserved Gothic‑Renaissance residence from the 15th century. Once home to one of Split’s noble families, it now houses the City Museum. The stone carvings, arched windows, and courtyard feel like stepping into a different world.

Yara said the palace was “nice, but missing a throne room.”

Oldest Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter

In the narrow lanes of the Jewish Quarter, we saw one of the oldest synagogues in Europe still in use, dating back to the 16th century. Built into the palace walls, it’s a quiet, meaningful reminder of Split’s long and diverse history.

Yara whispered, “I like old places. They respect tradition. And me.”

Art Nouveau Nakić House

We stopped by the Nakić House, a striking Art Nouveau building from the early 1900s. Its curved lines, floral details, and elegant balconies stand out among the older stone structures.

Yara said, “Finally, something with style.”

Riva Promenade — Split’s Living Room

The tour ended along the Riva, Split’s iconic waterfront promenade. It was created during French rule in the early 1800s, when Napoleon’s administrators demolished old structures and reused the stone to build what is now the city’s favorite gathering place.

Yara said the Riva was “acceptable,” but the benches “should be velvet.”

Afternoon Hike — Zoo and Botanical Gardens

After the tour, I took another walk near the zoo and wandered through the botanical gardens on Marjan. Quiet paths, shaded greenery, and views of the sea made it a perfect cooldown from the morning’s history marathon.

Yara, the “big hiker,” complained the entire time, even though she didn’t walk a single step.

Split continues to be a mix of ancient stone, seaside air, and lively streets — a place where history isn’t just preserved, it’s lived in.
Yara continues to be dramatic, opinionated, and convinced she could redesign the entire city if given a week.