Adventure Day 11 -Split

Day 11 — Split: The Great Marjan Expedition (Featuring One Very Unimpressed Porcelain Hiker)

Today was a serious walking day — almost 10 miles of exploring the entire Marjan peninsula. I did the hiking. I did the sweating.
Yara, meanwhile, complained so consistently you’d think she was climbing Everest barefoot instead of riding comfortably in my pocket.

Here’s everywhere we went — with Yara’s commentary included, of course.

Marjan Stairway — The Gateway to the Hill

The day began with the long stone stairway leading up the slopes of Marjan Hill, shaded by pine trees and offering early glimpses of Split’s red‑roofed skyline. These steps have carried locals, monks, fishermen, and travelers for centuries.

Yara’s review:
“Too many stairs. Install an elevator.”

Zoo vrt Split — A Forest Zoo Frozen in Time

Tucked into the woods near the base of Marjan, Zoo vrt Split is a tiny, old‑style zoo — more like a quiet animal park than a modern facility. It has rustic enclosures, shaded paths, and a peaceful, slightly nostalgic feel.

Yara’s review:
“Where are the exotic animals? I expected at least one dragon.”

The Saddle — A Natural Balcony Over Split

The Saddle is a dip between two peaks of Marjan, creating a natural viewpoint. From here, you can see Split stretching out behind you and the Adriatic shimmering ahead. The wind funnels through the gap, making it a perfect rest spot.

Yara’s review:
“Nice view. Still too much walking.”

St. Nicholas Church — A Sailor’s Sanctuary

This tiny medieval chapel sits quietly among the trees. Dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors, it once served as a place where fishermen prayed before heading out to sea. Its stone walls and simple altar feel untouched by time.

Yara’s review:
“Cute. Needs more gold.”

Grand Peak — A View Worth the Climb

One of Marjan’s highest accessible points, Grand Peak offers a sweeping panorama of Split, the islands of Brač and Šolta, and the endless blue of the Adriatic. The climb is steep, but the reward is huge.

Yara’s review:
“Finally a view worthy of me.”

Our Lady of Bethlehem Church — Hidden in the Pines

Deep in the forest sits the 15th‑century Our Lady of Bethlehem Church, a small stone chapel built by local hermits. It’s quiet, shaded, and feels like a secret — the kind of place you stumble upon rather than seek out.

Yara’s review:
“I like it. Build me one.”

Santine Rocks — The Cliffs Above the Sea

These rocky outcrops overlook the coastline far below. Waves crash against the cliffs, the wind picks up, and the whole area feels wild and dramatic — a sharp contrast to the calm forest trails.

Yara’s review:
“Too windy. Fix it.”

Church of St. Jerome & the Hermitage — Carved Into the Mountain

One of the most fascinating spots on Marjan: a tiny church and a set of hermit dwellings carved directly into the cliffside. Medieval monks lived here in complete isolation, surrounded by stone, sea, and silence.

Yara’s review:
“I could live here. Alone. With servants.”

Telegrin Peak — The Summit of Marjan

At 178 meters, Telegrin Peak is the highest point of Marjan. A massive Croatian flag waves above the city, and the view is spectacular — Split, the islands, the mountains, everything laid out like a painting.

Yara’s review:
“This is my mountain now.”

Back in Town — Riva Time

After conquering Marjan (or rather, after I conquered it), we returned to town. We wandered the narrow stone streets, let ourselves get lost, and eventually settled on the Riva, watching the boats, the people, and the late‑day sun.

Yara lounged like she’d just completed an ultramarathon, even though she spent the entire hike riding along and complaining.

Split continues to be beautiful, lively, and full of surprises.
Yara continues to be dramatic, demanding, and absolutely convinced she’s the rightful ruler of every peak in Dalmatia.